© 2016 The Frivolous Engineering Company
The Frivolous Engineering Company

Useless Machine Soldering Instructions

The electronics assembly for the Useless Machine is very easy to solder together. It consists of 12 parts as shown in the photo. Required tools & material: soldering iron side-cutters measuring tape or ruler rosin core electronics solder Option Tools: wire cutter/stripper flush-cut side-cutters or “wire nippers” heat gun
Also helpful is a Panavise, or alligator clip “helping hands”. But you can also make do with pliers and a rubber band as shown in the photo.
If you’re new to soldering check out “Soldering is Easy” by Mitch Altman , Andie Nordgren & Jeff Keyzer: http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderComic_EN.pdf  It’s a comic book that explains everything you need to know about soldering.  In very little time you’ll be soldering like a pro!
Micro-Switch Assembly: First cut the supplied wire into roughly 16 cm (6.5 inch) and 10 cm (4 inch) pairs and strip off the insulation from the ends about 4 mm (3/16 inch).
Split the conductors and tine the wires on one end of the 10cm(4 inch) wire. Tin the outside pins on the Micro-Switch (the middle pin is not used). Place a piece of heat-shrink over each of the tinned wires. Solder the wires to the outside pins off the Micro-Switch.
Move the heat-shrink so it covers the pins and using a heat gun or soldering iron, shrink the heat-shrink. Take care not to melt the Micro-switch!  Set the Micro-switch Assembly aside for now.
Split the conductors on the 16cm (6 ½ inch) wire and route it underneath the plastic strap for added strain relief. Ensure that the copper conductor goes to the correct tab on the motor as shown in the photo. Otherwise the motor will run backwards. Solder the copper conductor to it’s motor tab, and then the silver colored conductor to the other motor tab. Set the Motor Assembly side for now.
Now it’s time to “populate” the printed circuit board. Sounds like fun! Most of the components & wires are mounted on the top side of the board and soldered on the bottom. All the components have their positions labeled on the topside silk screen.
Insert the Toggle Switch & Resistors into their respective locations as shown. Make sure the Toggle Switch is flush with the circuit board. Solder the Toggle Switch & Resistors in place. Using side-cutters or nippers, cut the excess leads off of the resistors. Now on to soldering the LEDs.
Which LED is red & which is green? When they aren’t illuminated they look identical. We’ve marked the leads of the Red LED with a red marker so you can tell which is which. You’ll notice that one pin on each LED is longer than the other. These are the positive leads and go in the holes marked with a + symbol near them.
The Green LED goes in the location closest to the Toggle switch on the bottom of the circuit board, marked LED1. The Red LED goes in LED2 . Make sure the LEDs are seated as close to, and as flush to the bottom of the circuit board as possible. Slightly bending the leads apart will help keep them in place when you go to solder them. Solder the LEDs and snip off the excess leads.
Split the end of the wires on the Micro-Switch Assembly about 4cm (1.5 inches). The circuit board has 2 pads labeled Micro & the strain relief holes are between those pads. Thread the wires of the Micro-Switch Assembly through the strain relief holes on the circuit board. Insert the leads for the Micro-Switch into the through-holes labeled Micro and solder them on the bottom of the circuit board as shown. The polarity doesn’t matter, so copper or silver conductors can go in either spot.
The battery pack comes with it’s wire leads stripped and tinned. Thread the wires through the strain relief holes. The Red wire of the battery pack goes to the hole labeled “+”  & the black wire to the “Bat -” (minus symbol). Solder the battery pack wires to the circuit board.
Split the conductors on the motor leads about 4cm (1.5 inches) & thread the wires through the strain relief holes in the circuit board. The silver colored conductor from the motor goes to Mot - on the board. The copper conductor goes to the + through-hole. Solder the motor leads to the circuit board.
If you end up soldering the motor wires to the wrong place, the motor will run backwards. If this happens, just unsolder the leads at the motor and switch them around. You are now done soldering! Time to check the operation of the Useless Machine Electronics assembly. Insert 2 AA batteries into the battery holder. The motor should begin turning. If the Toggle Switch is in the “ON” position, the motor turns counterclockwise & the Red LED is lit. In the “OFF” position the motor turns clockwise & the Green LED is lit. Activating the Micro-Switch when the toggle is “OFF” will stop the motor and turn off the Green LED. When the toggle is “ON”, activating the Micro-Switch will have no effect on the motor. Congratulations:  you have soldered together The Useless Machine Circuit Board! You are now, officially, USEFUL! Proceed to the Case Assembly Page NOTE:  These instructions are newly revised and if they aren’t clear or if you’re having difficulties please contact us.  Also if you see ANY mistakes, please let us know. 
Nip off any excess wire after you have soldered the leads in place. Do the same with the other wires that are soldered.
Copyright©2016 The Frivolous Engineering Company
The Frivolous Engineering Company The Frivolous Engineering Company

Soldering Instructions

The electronics assembly for the Useless Machine is very easy to solder together. It consists of 12 parts as shown in the photo. Required tools & material: soldering iron side-cutters measuring tape or ruler rosin core electronics solder
Also helpful is a Panavise, or alligator clip “helping hands”. But you can also make do with pliers and a rubber band as shown in the photo.
If you’re new to soldering check out “Soldering is Easy”  by Mitch Altman , Andie Nordgren & Jeff Keyzer: http://mightyohm.com/files/soldercomic/FullSolderCom ic_EN.pdf   It’s a comic book that explains everything you need to know about soldering.  In very little time you’ll be soldering like a pro!
Micro-Switch Assembly: First cut the supplied wire into roughly 16 cm (6.5 inch) and 10 cm (4 inch) pairs and strip off the insulation from the ends about 4 mm (3/16 inch).
Split the conductors and tin the wires on one end of the 10cm(4 inch) wire. Tin the outside pins on the Micro-Switch (the middle pin is not used). Place a piece of heat-shrink over each of the tinned wires. Solder the wires to the outside pins off the Micro- Switch.
Move the heat-shrink so it covers the pins and using a heat gun or soldering iron, shrink the heat-shrink. Take care not to melt the Micro-switch!  Set the Micro- switch Assembly aside for now.
Split the conductors on the 16cm (6 ½ inch) wire and route it underneath the plastic strap for added strain relief.
Now it’s time to “populate” the printed circuit board. Sounds like fun! Most of the components & wires are mounted on the top side of the board and soldered on the bottom. All the components have their positions labeled on the topside silk screen.
Insert the Toggle Switch & Resistors into their respective locations as shown. Make sure the Toggle Switch is flush with the circuit board. Solder the Toggle Switch & Resistors in place. Using side-cutters or nippers, cut the excess leads off of the resistors. Now on to soldering the LEDs.
Which LED is red & which is green? When they aren’t illuminated they look identical. We’ve marked the leads of the Red LED with a red marker so you can tell which is which. You’ll notice that one pin on each LED is longer than the other. These are the positive leads and go in the holes marked with a + symbol near them.
The Green LED goes in the location closest to the Toggle switch on the bottom of the circuit board, marked LED1. The Red LED goes in LED2 . Make sure the LEDs are seated as close to, and as flush to the bottom of the circuit board as possible. Slightly bending the leads apart will help keep them in place when you go to solder them. Solder the LEDs and snip off the excess leads.
Split the end of the wires on the Micro-Switch Assembly about 4cm (1.5 inches). The circuit board has 2 pads labeled Micro & the strain relief holes are between those pads. Thread the wires of the Micro-Switch Assembly through the strain relief holes on the circuit board. Insert the leads for the Micro-Switch into the through-holes labeled Micro and solder them on the bottom of the circuit board as shown. The polarity doesn’t matter, so copper or silver conductors can go in either spot.
The battery pack comes with it’s wire leads stripped and tinned. Thread the wires through the strain relief holes. The Red wire of the battery pack goes to the hole labeled “+”  & the black wire to the “Bat -” (minus symbol). Solder the battery pack wires to the circuit board.
Split the conductors on the motor leads about 4cm (1.5 inches) & thread the wires through the strain relief holes in the circuit board. The silver colored conductor from the motor goes to Mot - on the board. The copper conductor goes to the + through-hole. Solder the motor leads to the circuit board.
If you end up soldering the motor wires to the wrong place, the motor will run backwards. If this happens, just unsolder the leads at the motor and switch them around. You are now done soldering! Time to check the operation of the Useless Machine Electronics assembly. Insert 2 AA batteries into the battery holder. The motor should begin turning. If the Toggle Switch is in the “ON” position, the motor turns counterclockwise & the Red LED is lit. In the “OFF” position the motor turns clockwise & the Green LED is lit. Activating the Micro-Switch when the toggle is “OFF” will stop the motor and turn off the Green LED. When the toggle is “ON”, activating the Micro-Switch will have no effect on the motor. Congratulations:  you have soldered together The Useless Machine Circuit Board!  You are now, officially, USEFUL! Proceed to the Case Assembly Instructions NOTE:  These instructions are newly revised and if they aren’t clear or if you’re having difficulties please contact us.  Also if you see ANY mistakes, please let us know. 
Nip off any excess wire after you have soldered the leads in place. Do the same with the other wires that are soldered.
Option Tools: wire cutter/stripper flush-cut side-cutters or “wire nippers” heat gun
Ensure that the copper conductor goes to the correct tab on the motor as shown in the photo. Otherwise the motor will run backwards. Solder the copper conductor to it’s motor tab, and then the silver colored conductor to the other motor tab. Set the Motor Assembly side for now.